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A street in
Leiden, where he has journeyed from his country home. He has come to pick
up his mail--directed as usual to an erroneous address in order to mask
his whereabouts in the Netherlands from the too curious back in France--and
to pay a visit on an intellectual supporter. On his journey here he had
gone out of his way to see a beached whale nearby--one of several to have
become trapped on shore in recent months.
The late morning
sky dotted with fleecy clouds.
He passses along
the way to Leiden several handsome country cottages.
After the heat
and humidity of summer, the populace enjoys the gentler warmth of a fall
day. On the front stoop, in a doorway, beside a freshly opened window,
they take the air. As he strolls beside a canal foul with the smell of
the human excrement accumulated there, down a wide, immaculate street lined
with trees, past brick and stone, snug, shipshape houses with red clay
tile roofs, there is much to see.
In another open
doorway a few houses away, a young girl, hands patiently folded, leans
back against her solicitous mother as she carefully picks lice out of her
daughter's blond hair. Within the same house, barely visible through one
of the large front windows, the girl's brother grooms his dog, crushing
the fleas he finds in its fur between the fingernails of his thumb
and forefinger, and a servant inspects the floor inch by inch for louse
eggs and prepares to spread lye--as well as chalk and turpentine on the
walls--to prevent their return.
Before a house
a maidservant on her knees scrubs and sands the front stoop and will do
the same--as she does each and every morning--for that portion of the sidewalk
and the street itself belonging to the household. In the open doorway of
the three-story, many-windowed house of brick, a woman in search of better
light sits threading a needle as she prepares to sew. To the left, in a
doorway leading to a courtyard, another servant opens a barrel. If he had
walked through the door and turned to the right, he might have discovered
a small girl holding her dog in her lap, a sword in its scabbard hung over
an open door, two Dutch men talking business over tankards of beer and
tobacco.
Without even
acknowledging his presence, lost in thought, he passes a rat catcher, a
grotesque man dressed in rags, leaning on a walking stick, accompanied
by an equally mangy dog.
Nearby a prostitute
plies her trade.
A woman peels
apples, aided by her small daughter who stands beside her, unwinding with
delight each fruit's long ribbon of skin.
A
game of skittles is in progress.
A fish vendor offers her goods.
A beggar approaches
with great caution, careful not to be seen by the constabulary who will
arrest him on sight, but is rebuffed without acknowledgment.
At another open
window, an elegantly dressed woman stands reading a letter.
Walking straight
ahead, he notices none of this. After all, he had withdrawn to the Netherlands
a decade ago in search of solitude, not to trouble himself with his fellow
citizens.

He had resolved
then to leave all places where he might have acquaintances and withdrawn
to this country where he might enjoy all the modern conveniences and all
the fruits of peace in the midst of a great and populous nation, extremely
industrious and more concerned with their own business than curious about
other people's. (As the old saying went, God made the world,
but the Dutch made Holland.) Able now to live a life as solitary and retired
as though in the most remote deserts, his ambitions had been largely realized. |